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The AtmosphereAlthough Hank Cheetahs’ mailing address is East 9th Street, you won’t see the café from the sidewalk. The eatery is more specifically located in the lobby of One Cleveland Center, an office building that also houses a branch of PNC Bank. Given the locale, one might be able to imagine the gaggle of executive look-alikes that flock to the restaurant once the clock hits noon.
One problem with Hank’s is its lack of seating. Plan to grab and go, because only a couple of high tops are available. In fact, the Innocent Bystander and I sat outside the café in One Cleveland Center’s recently renovated sterile foyer and rolled our eyes at the piped Muzak. On the plus side, the restaurant itself is airy and clean with not a stray straw wrapper or sugar packet in sight. Even though the bistro tends to be swarmed during the lunch hour, you won’t have to wait long for your food. Hank’s is prepared for its clientele, and the staff is rather large for a joint that basically is takeout-only. The MenuDon’t bother googling “Hank Cheetahs” or even scrounging for a printed menu—all of the restaurant’s selections are chalked on 4-ft-tall blackboards. Completely eclectic, the menu is a true representation of fusion cuisine: Mediterranean/Greek, Middle Eastern, and American fare are ready to tempt your tastebuds.
From cobb salads and corned-beef sandwiches to chicken shis taouk and hummus/tabbouleh plates, the range of items is so great, I challenge anyone who says they can’t find acceptable sustenance to a duel. Daily specials typically include sandwiches, wraps, salads, and a couple of soups. (I would have tried today’s chicken chili if the outdoor temp hadn’t been hovering around 100˚F.) The FoodIf I’m being completely honest, I have to admit that I wasn’t expecting much more than bland run-of-the-mill cafeteria food. Perhaps I’ve been jaded by the greasy, not-so-delightful venue that resides in my downtown building, but who knew you could find such tasty treats in the lobby of an office depository? I went the safe route and chose a chipotle-beef sandwich, one of the specials of the day. Wrapped in old-fashioned parchment paper, the surprising sandwich was created from a pile of tender roast beef, marinated red peppers, pepper-jack cheese, a smooth horseradish sauce, and a spicy chipotle dressing, all of which was held together by a sliced ciabatta roll and toasted just enough to mingle the diverse flavors. With so many savories tickling my tongue, my brain couldn’t focus long enough to remember another sandwich that cost so little yet tasted so good. Only $5.95, this sandwich was big enough to fill my belly on its own. I skipped a bag of chips, but couldn’t quite stay away from the fresh-baked peanut-butter cookie that was staring at me from the countertop. Soft and still warm from the oven, the chewy dessert was well worth its $1 price tag.
The Innocent Bystander was much more adventurous, picking a bowl of lentils and rice topped with tabbouleh and served with a pita for $5.50. Adding an entire sliced chicken breast only added another $1.50. I have to admit, I was amazed. I never would have thought a course of legumes and grains could make me … happy! Zesty and bright, the tabbouleh was a magical mix of finely chopped parsley, tomatoes, red onion, cucumber, bulgur, and other various seasonings that I’m assuming are classified as top secret. Fold the blend into the pita, and you have a perfect, portable meal to relish over. DepartingHank Cheetahs is definitely a place to try food that’s outside your normal comfort zone. I get the feeling that the staff members are well-acquainted with their craft—serving up such a wide selection of foodstuffs, they must be masters of many. Add in the speedy service and the basement-bottom prices, and I’m shocked Hank’s isn’t completely overrun. |





